Culinária: A história e a receita da vaca atolada

Costela e mandioca: quando o casamento de dois ingredientes vira perfeição em forma de receita

vaca-atoalda
A história da vaca atolada

A fama da cozinha mineira é boa e nela não podem faltar pratos fartos. Um dos mais festejados é a vaca atolada, que envolve suculentos pedaços de carne (normalmente costela bovina), mandioca desmanchando, um bom refogado caseiro, um punhado de ervas (como salsinha e cebolinha) e pimenta.

O nome é curioso e tem várias explicações populares. A mais comum conta que teria surgido na época dos bandeirantes, por volta do século XVII, quando os tropeiros começaram as expedições em busca de ouro em Minas Gerais. Para a aventura, carregavam num embornal uma carne imersa em gordura, processo que preservava o alimento e garantia o sustento da trupe durante as viagens. Era comum nessas jornadas enfrentar temporadas de chuva e o gado encalhar. Quando isso acontecia, era o momento de fazer uma pausa e comer uma boa refeição.

Histórias à parte, os tempos são outros e o modo de preparo, logicamente, mudou. “A carne é o ingrediente principal desse prato e hoje usa-se tradicionalmente a costela bovina com osso. Deve-se, portanto, prestar atenção na escolha. Esse é um corte que precisa ter gordura, mas na hora de escolher, eleja uma bem bonita, com um bom equilíbrio entre carne e gordura”, explica a chef Heloísa Bacellar, do empório Lá da Venda, em São Paulo. Veja a receita.

vaca-atolada
Vaca atolada

Um dos grandes segredos, para quem tiver tempo, é temperar a costela na véspera. E a panela de pressão agiliza o preparo: ao invés de quatro horas da carne no fogo, com ela demora-se, em média, duas horas. Para ficar mais leve, ao refogar a costela, retire o excesso de gordura que ela solta.

A mandioca deve ser cozida separadamente e só vai para a panela da carne quando já estiver macia. “Ela terminará de cozinhar com a carne e engrossará o caldo. Com esse tempo longo de cocção, a mandioca ficará parte em pedaços e parte em purê; e a carne desfiando”, comenta Heloísa, que guarda nas memórias de infância o gosto da vaca atolada que a avó fazia no fogão a lenha, na fazenda.

Para o corre-corre diário, alguns ‘atalhos’ podem ser seguidos: usar mandioca pré-cozida ou congelada acelera o processo. Mas claro que nem sempre o resultado é o mesmo de quando você usa ingredientes frescos, que deixam a receita mais leve e cremosa. Como ela pede preparo longo, outro artifício é fazer um estoque no freezer, já que ela é conservada bem nesse processo de ‘guarda’. “Como todo ensopado, depois de pronto e com um descanso, fica até mais gostoso, já que os sabores se intensificam”, dá a dica a chef.

E já que reaproveitar é preciso, se sobrar carne, a especialista aconselha desfiá-la, misturar com ovos e fazer uma espécie de ‘suflê’; ou amassar a mandioca e colocar a carne desfiada no fundo para virar um escondidinho. Caso aconteça a situação inversa, ao olhar a geladeira e ver que tem um pouco de mandioca, carne e alguns itens básicos de temperos e ervas, não deixe preparar a vaca atolada no modo rápido, como sugere o chef Rodrigo Oliveira, do restaurante Mocotó, templo da comida nordestina, em São Paulo. Basta montar camadas com os dois ingredientes principais, juntar tomate e cebola, por exemplo, e levar para gratinar. Depois, é só suspirar com o resultado fumegante do prato saindo do forno.

Para saber mais sobre escolher e limpar uma costela, confira o Curso de Costela do chef Flávio Miyamura.

Receita de vaca atolada, (por Rodrigo Oliveira)

O chef do restaurante Mocotó ensina a receita de forma simples e práticaServe: 4 pessoas
Tempo de preparo: 20 minutos
Grau de dificuldade: InicianteCorte: Costela

Cortes alternativos: Músculo do Traseiro, Músculo do Dianteiro

vaca-atolada-rodrigo-oliveira
Receita de vaca atolada do chef Rodrigo Oliveira

Ingredientes

300 g de carne de panela cozida
300 g de mandioca cozida
5 tomates cerejas cortados ao meio
4 cebolas pérola em conserva
Azeitonas fatiadas a gosto
Cebolinha a gosto

Modo de preparo

Cubra o fundo de uma travessa com a mandioca cozida. Por cima, coloque os pedaços da carne de panela, regue com o molho que sobrou do cozimento da carne – coloque até que cubra a mandioca. Em seguida, coloque os tomates cereja cortados, as cebolas pérola e a azeitona. Leve ao forno para gratinar por 8 minutos. Finalize com cebolinha a gosto e um fio de azeite. Sirva bem quentinho.

Por Academia da carne Friboi

Denilson Alves

Editor do Portal Nosso Goiás

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